The newcube Paris Guide

My relationship with Paris goes back years. Having lived here for several years, it’s a city that shaped my eye, my love of art, and, admittedly, my weakness for beautiful things. More than anything, Paris is a city that makes me feel alive. And endlessly happy to be back.

Here, art is everywhere. Not just in museums and galleries, but in the architecture, the flea markets, the gardens, the cafés, and that unmistakably Parisian ability to make even the most ordinary things feel extraordinary. Beauty isn’t reserved for special occasions. It’s simply a way of life.

With Art Basel returning to the Grand Palais this week, Paris is once again the center of the art world. But the magic of this city has never been about ticking places off a list. It’s in the unexpected discoveries, the long lunches that turn into late afternoons, the detours that become the highlight of your day.

So consider this less of a checklist and more of a love letter to Paris, and a few of my favorite ways to experience it. Because if there’s one thing this city has taught me, it’s that the art of living is just as important as the art itself.

From exhibitions not to miss to favorite neighborhood haunts, vintage treasures, and a few family traditions, here is my guide to Paris during art week.

SEE

Paris is putting on quite a show this autumn, with an exceptional lineup of exhibitions spanning some of today’s most exciting artists and the great names of art history. Here are a few highlights, in no particular order:

Simone Fattal @ Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris: Fattal’s work moves effortlessly between ancient civilizations, mythology, and the contemporary world. Her sculptures and ceramics feel at once archaeological and remarkably modern. A personal favorite.

Kerry James Marshall @ Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris: One of the most important painters of our time, Marshall has spent decades challenging the absence of Black figures from the Western art-historical canon. An absolute must-see.

Ibrahim Mahama @ Fondation Cartier: The Ghanaian artist transforms everyday materials into monumental installations exploring labor, collective memory, and the histories objects carry with them. Also, a wonderful opportunity to discover Fondation Cartier’s new home near the Palais-Royal.

Louise Bourgeois @ Bibliothèque nationale de France: Obviously, an exhibition not to miss.

Yu Nishimura @ Lafayette Anticipations: Atmospheric paintings that hover somewhere between memory, landscape, and dream. The star of the moment oftens a quieter moment amid the intensity of art week.

Mary Cassatt and Jenny Holzer @ Musée d’Orsay: Two pioneering women, two very different artistic languages, and both know how to challenge convention. And frankly, any excuse to revisit the Musée d’Orsay is a good one.

Tracey Emin @ Trocadéro: Breathtaking. Maybe best to view at night?

GALLERIES & FAIRS

Art Basel may be the main attraction, but some of the week’s best discoveries happen beyond the Grand Palais. The Marais and Avenue Matignon are particularly worth exploring, as are the independent fairs.

Tracey Emin @ White Cube: Dame Tracey strikes again.

Daisuke Fukunaga @ Crèvecœur: Waiting as Time Shifts. The Japanese painter’s quietly cinematic compositions capture the poetry of everyday life, suspended moments, and the subtle passage of time. A recent discovery of mine, and an artist I would love to add to my personal collection!

Amoako Boafo @ Mariane Ibrahim: The Home I’ve Never Had. Intimate portraits exploring identity, belonging, and the idea of home, brought to life by Boafo’s unmistakable textured surfaces.

And some alternative art fairs not to miss:

Post fair: After making its debut in Los Angeles in 2025, Post-Fair crosses the Atlantic for its first European edition, taking over two neighboring spaces on Rue du Temple. Bringing together 34 international galleries, the fair offers a more intimate alternative to the Grand Palais, with a focus on solo and two-artist presentations. A welcome addition to Paris Art Week, and one I’m particularly curious to discover.

Paris Internationale: Always one of my priorities during art week. A little less polished, a little more experimental, and an excellent place to discover younger galleries and artists.

OFFSCREEN Paris: Dedicated to photography, film, and installation, this is a refreshing departure from the traditional art fair format.

EAT & DRINK

Paris is a city where a coffee can turn into an afternoon and lunch can easily become dinner. I’m particularly fond of places with character, whether a timeless bistro, a neighborhood café, or somewhere with a good story behind it. 

La Perle: My kind of Parisian café. Unpretentious, lively, and excellent for people-watching. Come for a coffee in the afternoon and you might find yourself staying considerably longer. Perfectly located for a break between Marais galleries.

Fringe Coffee: A new little gem in the Haut Marais where specialty coffee meets photography. Beautifully made coffee, homemade pastries, and a relaxed, creative atmosphere. My kind of place between exhibitions.

Sound and Coffee: A little slice of Tokyo in the historic Passage des Panoramas. Inspired by Japanese jazz listening cafés, this audiophile haven brings together specialty coffee, vintage hi-fi equipment, and an extraordinary collection of 15,000 vinyl records. Coffee by day, cocktails and music by night. A wonderful reminder that good design isn’t just about what we see, but also what we hear.

Le Relais de Venise (the original one near Place Maillot): A family tradition, and one I never tire of. Get in the line at 6:15, doors open at 7.

404: Tucked away on rue des Gravilliers, this atmospheric Moroccan restaurant feels like stepping into another world and makes you forget you’re in the middle of Paris.

Hôtel du Sentier: Overlooking Place du Caire, this charming hotel and restaurant has a lovely terrace and an easy, distinctly neighborhood feel. Perfect for breakfast, a long lunch, or a glass of wine after a day of exploring.

Parcelles: A charming Marais bistro with excellent seasonal cooking and a wonderful wine list. Perfect for lunch between galleries.

Le Bon Georges: Everything a classic Parisian bistro should be. 

Le Mary Celeste: Great cocktails, good food, and just the right atmosphere. A favorite place to end a day of gallery-hopping.

Café de Flore: Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, it’s a cliché. But some clichés exist for a reason. Grab a table, order a coffee, and watch the world go by.

A DETOUR: CANAL SAINT-MARTIN

If the Marais is where Paris shows off, Canal Saint-Martin is where it relaxes.

One of my favorite neighborhoods for wandering without much of an itinerary, the canal is lined with little bridges, independent shops, cafés, and just enough beautiful Parisian chaos. And perhaps the best recommendation of all: pick up a coffee, walk along Quai de Valmy, and do absolutely nothing for half an hour.

SHOP

Paris is a treasure hunt for anyone interested in art, antiques, design, and objects with a story. Having grown up surrounded by decorative arts, I’ve inherited a particular affection for the beautifully made, the unusual, and the slightly eccentric.

Larfeuille Paris: A charming leather goods atelier in the Marais, where everything is handmade using French leather. Simple lines, beautiful materials, and a real commitment to craftsmanship. Understated luxury just like I love it.

Souvenir Machine: A wonderfully curated vintage shop on rue de Turbigo. Think pieces with character, personality, and a life before yours.

Librairie Yvon Lambert: my first footsteps in the art world were at the historical Yvon Lambert gallery and his bookstore is one not to miss: artists books, rare publications, prints, and editions, curated with the eye of one of France’s most influential gallerists. A must for contemporary art lovers.

Merci: A Parisian concept store combining design, fashion, and homeware. Always worth a visit while wandering through the Marais.

Galerie Vauclair: An enchanting cabinet of curiosities filled with nineteenth-century decorative arts, unusual furniture, and beautiful garden objects. Precisely my kind of treasure hunt.

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen: A little far, but if you extend your trip, always a good idea to spend a few hours at Les Puces. Go without a shopping list and with plenty of time.

A LITTLE NOTE ON PARIS, PROTESTS & THE UNEXPECTED

It wouldn’t be a proper Paris guide without mentioning the demonstrations. Paris has seen its fair share of protests over the years, and this week is no exception.

As someone who lived here for years, I’ve never been particularly afraid of “les manifs”. Protest is deeply woven into French history and culture, and the city’s willingness to make itself heard is part of its character. Of course, (and without getting political), with recent demonstrations turning violent in some areas, common sense applies. Stay informed, avoid any clashes, and allow extra time to get around. Paris is always worth a little logistical improvisation. 

And a special mention for the Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris’s oldest covered market, tragically destroyed by fire on October 12. It would have definitely been on my guide otherwise!

Paris will always be a city of contrasts: elegant and chaotic, historic and experimental, sometimes frustrating, but endlessly inspiring. It’s a place that rewards curiosity, and one that has taught me as much outside museums as within them.

So, between the fairs, exhibitions, and gallery openings, leave a little room for the unexpected. Take the longer route, look up at the buildings, sit at a café longer than you intended, and get a little lost.

After all, isn’t that what discovering art, and a city, is all about?

If you’re in Paris for Art Basel and would like guidance on navigating the fairs, discovering artists, or building your collection, get in touch.